Nokkome Oreum, a volcanic cone in Aewol where a forest trail leads to Hallasan and the sea off Hallim

On a day when you want to walk a proper uphill stretch in Aewol's mid-mountain area, add Nokkome Oreum to your itinerary. In Yusuam-ri, Aewol-eup, the tall, pointed Keun Nokkome and the lower Jogeun Nokkome beside it stand side by side, which is why they are also called the 'brother cones.' The 'Jogeun' at the front of the name means 'small' in the Jeju dialect.

It used to be called Nopgome, and today it is called Nokkome. Which of the two cones you climb changes the feel of the day quite a bit, so if you get to know what each one looks like before you set out, you'll do less wandering on the trail.

How Keun Nokkome and Jogeun Nokkome differ

Keun Nokkome is a large volcanic body in the mid-mountain area of northwestern Jeju. Its steep slopes hold two peaks, and the northern one is the summit. Its once-round crater has worn away into a horseshoe-shaped crater open to the northwest, and small hills lie scattered on the northwest side, where the crater opens. Picturing the cone's shape before you climb makes the trail more interesting.

Jogeun Nokkome lies northeast of Keun Nokkome. Its dense forest makes it a place where you can walk a forest trail and the cone together, and from its summit you can look across at Keun Nokkome on the opposite side. There are several routes up Jogeun Nokkome, passing by way of Gwetmul Oreum or Keun Nokkome, so decide which one you'll take before you set out.

If you want a long walk through the forest, think of Jogeun Nokkome first; if you're after a summit view that reaches all the way to Hallasan and the sea, think of Keun Nokkome first. If you plan to walk both cones in one go, it's a good idea to choose your route with both your stamina and the time of sunset in mind.

Photo: Grapesurgeon / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

The trail up Keun Nokkome: about 1 hour one way, two rest areas

Climbing Keun Nokkome takes about 1 hour one way. The trail begins as a gentle forest path and grows steeper as it goes, and there are two rest areas along the way where you can catch your breath. Treat the gentle forest stretch at the start as a warm-up and walk in slowly. A sip of water when the path starts to steepen makes the going much easier.

The trail keeps climbing, so wear non-slip shoes and bring plenty of drinking water. If you're walking with others, it's better to match the pace of whoever walks slowest. On the forest path, watch for stones and tree roots underfoot, and when you reach a rest area, take a short breather before setting off rather than heading straight back up. Coming down can put more strain on your ankles and knees than going up, so shorten your stride and walk slowly.

You can also climb with your dog. Keep the leash or harness lead within 2m, and you need to bring waste bags.

What you see from the summit: volcanic cones large and small, Hallasan, and the sea off Hallim

From the summit of Keun Nokkome, volcanic cones large and small, Jogeun Nokkome among them, spread out around you, and you can see Hallasan and the sea off Hallim. If you're climbing Nokkome Oreum for the view, it's a good idea to pick a day with clear skies. Even from the same spot, how far you can see changes with the weather.

In autumn you can see silver grass rippling in the wind. Rather than pinning down a date for when the silver grass will peak, it's better to go by the weather and wind on the day of your autumn hike. At the summit, instead of trying to name the cones, use the time to catch your breath while looking back and forth between the Hallasan side and the sea side. When you take photos, step aside so people coming up behind you can get past.

Finishing your Nokkome Oreum hike before sunset

Keun Nokkome is open every day of the year with no periods when entry is restricted, but visiting before sunset is recommended. The trail takes about 1 hour one way, so add in the time to come back down and plan a start time with plenty to spare, so you can finish the hike before the sun goes down. The wind can feel cold once the sun starts to sink, so in autumn it's good to bring an extra light layer.

Keun Nokkome has a public parking lot and restrooms. It's handy to take a quick look at their exact locations on a map before you set out. After you come down, knock the dirt off your shoes, and please carry out all the trash you brought with you.

If you head down toward the Aewol coast after your hike

If you're coming down from Nokkome Oreum and heading toward the Aewol coast, consider adding Mipojip Jeju Aewol to your list of places to eat. It's some distance from the mid-mountain area to the coast, so it's a good idea to check your route and traffic conditions on a map before you leave.

If a hearty meal is on your mind after the hike, take a look at the menu of Mipojip, which serves haemuljang (soy-cured seafood) and sotbap (pot rice). Flipping through the photos you took at the summit together and talking over the trail you climbed today would make for a nice time as well.